Franz Josef really did tick all the boxes. The township was small, yet well equipped for the hordes of travellers visiting the area. I spent much of my night keeping warm by a roaring fire in a great pub, while other patrons tucked into wintery meals like hot pots and roast dinners - all washed down with pints of local ale. It was great, and I only wish time permitted me the luxury of staying longer.
Today (Friday) I went to see the area's glaciers. It was the first time in my life that I had ever been near anything like it. Access to the glacier at Franz Josef was quite restricted - almost ludicrously so. A rope sealed off the pathway a stupid distance away from it, with a sign saying visitors 'should not' progress any further because of 'possible' dangers. What sort of a fucking warning is that? If you want to keep people out of somewhere, don't beat about the bush with the sort of language somebody uses down the pub when they are debating whether to have one last drink - 'well I really shouldn't have another beer, but as you're buying'. Anyway, you only live once, and so I ignored this weedy warning and climbed over the rope for a closer look at the glacier (when you get right up close there are more severe warning signs). When I made it back unharmed, a group of other tourists stared at me as I came back to the unprohibited side of the pathway. I was half expecting them to have a go at me, but as it transpired one said 'fuck it', climbed over the rope himself and then the others then followed. I like to encourage irresponsible behaviour on mountains.
It goes without saying the glacier was stunning, and I felt slightly cheated as I went back to the van that I couldn't see any more. I cast envious eyes up at the helicopters flying people to the top for a snow landing, although it was $300 a pop to go on one. I just felt like I wanted to see more. It was a bit like pulling someone, getting to the fondling stage, feeling a glorious sense of anticipation, before being told to fuck off home.
Anyway, although I didn't see as much of the glaciers as I would have liked, my drive down to Queenstown in the afternoon was easily the most stunning of the trip so far. I had to stop at least ten times to take photographs of the scenery, such was its breathtaking quality. The highlight was driving around Lake Wanaka (spelling correct), where at times I physically laughed out loud at the ludicrously fantastic views. This truly is the most attractive country I have ever visited.
I arrived in Queenstown at around 6pm, which was a bit later than planned. This is the main tourist town on the South Island, and is famous for extreme pursuits such as bungee jumping. Indeed, this is where the first 'bungee' took place. I have not come here to partake in that. It's never been something I've been interested in doing, and I don't really 'get' why people do it either. A bit like voting Lib Dem.
There was another 'first' for me today, when I sent my meal in a Thai restaurant in Queenstown back to the kitchen for being utterly shite. If I order Chili Chicken, I expect the main component of the dish to be chicken, strangely enough. I do not expect a couple of small slices of poultry to be accompanied by about 456 bits of cauliflower. For the record, I hate fucking cauliflower. When the dish came back from the kitchen, about one malteser sized piece of chicken had been added to the dish. It was a clear 'fuck you' from the chef. I left the restaurant in a foul mood hoping the place burns down sometime soon.
Anyway, Queenstown is teeming with visitors and Friday night revellers. I now intend to get shit faced, explore the area a bit more in the morning and then head to my final destination before flying back to Oz on Sunday - Mt Cook.
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